From Start to producing Seed to Flowering

The most safe use of insecticides & Fungicides
you having proper equipment & clothing is essentiaL
Equipment you need is quality respirator & plastic face mask,
gloves & waterproof clothing including wellington boots. waterproof leggings,
make sure they are over the wellington's & tunic sleeves are over the gloves
Ready to start spraying
I spray all stock plants & once they are rooted start spraying
every plant every 14 days until flowering. Should alternate you insecticide & fungicide
Spraying plants in cold frames, this should done in the morning when weather permits & allow plenty of air circulation, take frost precautions
The selected plants for crossing placed in frame work, notice the corrugated sheets on top
Covered from 6pm to 8am allowing between 12 to 14 hours
Black out removed
These tools you will need
I now have a new type of Magnifying glasses , which are very good and different magnifications
Stamens producing pollen
Harry cross pollinating
Show individual stigma fertilized

Stigmas received pollen

Seed Heads pollinated
I now place my seed heads under the velux window, they like a dry atmosphere whilst drying out, I make sure once the heads are brown no more water in the jars, watch for fungus appearing
Husk showing seed

Fongarid this tip was given me by Dr Barry Machin, many years ago
Perfect for preventing rotting of seed & cuttings
this is very good fungicide. I have had Fongarid for years.
I am not sure if it's available now.


I use Fongarid teaspoonful to 1b jam jar top up with water as stock solution then 60 mls to 2 gallons of water
Sterlised

 

 


   
Germination of seed
Seedling pricked into trays
Three weeks later

Showing 99.9% rooting of seedlings

Mole hills are sterlised by Pat's old Microwave. This take 3/4 of average plastic bag, well worth the time & effort

 

These seed trays are BEF trays over 35 years old
Once they are removed from the propagating bench
allowed to get acclimatised to the greenhouse for 3 to 4 days then into 3.5 pots

 

I use 3.5 square plastic pots which ideal for the mushroom trays, I have these BEF pots over 35 years old & still going strong
Harry inspecting seedlings
Seedlings into 3.5 Square Pots


 

Growing nicely these will be potted into 5" pots when ready
Seedlings by the hundreds
notice white emulsion paint sides on greenhouse
white reflects light
Now into 5" pots in greenhouse
5" pots in cold frame to harden off, notice white lime wash on sides of frames

Knocked out of 5" pot ready for 3 ltr pot or 7" pot; flowered on break bud
I do this with all chrysanthemums grown from seed

By keeping them in greenhouse and on the break bud, they flower early, so that I can pick out the potential ones for to keeping.
The average percentage is 3% to 5% that I keep
Early plot for Selected future seedlings , marked off into rows of four
Canes planted 15" between each plant & 18" between rows. Paths 30"
Planted from 5" pots into land
All cover planted
Early Seedling getting established
Second & Third Year Late Seedlings into Final Pots ; note the clay pots. When these break replaced with plastic pots, getting to heavy in old age

Page 2

If you want to start breeding, I would recommend you start with late flowering singles more

Read all about the different varieties more

National Chrysanthemum Society

Agm held in
Best Western Hotel
Stoke on Trent Moat House

15th March 2008

&
Presentation of Cups during Early & Late
National Shows 2007
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Stoke agm

 

Readers comments about my book click

 
 

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Chrysanthemum lovers from all over the world click for here for the websites

Transporting Blooms & Staging Late National Show 2007 more